Nothing if your Chevy HHR battery dies right when you need to go somewhere. You turn the key. Nothing happens. Just a click or total silence. It feels awful. Many HHR owners get stuck because the battery sits in the trunk, not under the hood like most cars. But hey, you can fix this yourself. It takes only a few minutes once you know the easy steps.
Jump starting a Chevy HHR works best with heavy jumper cables and the right connections. Use the remote positive post under the hood instead of the trunk battery. Always connect positive first, then negative to a metal ground point. Let the good car run a bit before you try starting yours. Drive for at least 20 minutes afterward to recharge. Check your battery soon because a weak one dies again fast. Safety comes first, so wear glasses and avoid sparks near the battery.
Why Does the Battery in My Chevy HHR Go Dead So Much?
It really bugs you when your HHR just won’t start one morning. The battery lives in the trunk on these cars. That spot makes it easy to forget about. You leave the lights on or the radio playing. Power drains slowly. Then boom, dead battery.
Cold days make it worse. The cold slows everything inside the battery. It can’t give enough power to turn the engine over. If your battery is old, say four or five years, it holds less charge anyway.
Other things steal power too. Small electronics keep pulling tiny bits even when the car sleeps. A bad alternator does not recharge it while you drive. You end up surprised every time.
Watch for clues early. Headlights look dim. The engine cranks slow. Catch those signs and you fix things before you get stuck. Clean the terminals now and then. It helps a lot. Knowing these reasons lets you stop problems before they start.
- Lights left on, old battery, and cold weather cause most dead batteries.
- Slow crank or dim lights warn you early.
- Regular checks keep your HHR starting every time.
How to Jump Start a Chevy HHR Safely
Step 1: Get Your Stuff Ready and Set Up the Cars
Grab strong jumper cables first. Pick thick ones, like 4-gauge or 6-gauge. Thin cables take too long and get hot. Safety glasses protect your eyes from any little sparks. Park the working car right next to your HHR. Keep them apart so they do not touch. Touching can cause bad electrical problems.
Turn everything off on both cars. No lights, no radio, no fan. Open the hoods on both. Your HHR has no battery under the hood. Look for the red cover near the fuse box. That is the remote positive spot made just for jumping. Find a clean metal bolt too, like on the strut tower. It works as your ground point.
Put both cars in park. Set the parking brakes. If it is dark outside, grab a flashlight. You want to see every clamp clearly. Good prep stops silly mistakes. It makes the whole job feel easy.
Take a deep breath. You got this. No rush at all.
- Thick jumper cables and safety glasses.
- Remote positive under red cover, metal ground point.
- Cars off, parked close but not touching.
Step 2: Hook Up the Cables the Safe Way
Start with the red cable. Put one end on the remote positive post under your HHR hood. Push it on tight. Now put the other red end on the positive post of the good battery. Positive always goes to positive. That keeps things safe.
Next take the black cable. Clamp one black end to the negative post on the good battery. For the last clamp, do not put it on your HHR battery. Hook it to the clean metal ground point instead. That way any spark stays far from battery gases.
Wiggle each clamp a little. Make sure they sit firm. Loose ones spark or fail to work. If you see green junk on posts, wipe it off fast. But never touch both posts together. Follow this order every time. It cuts down danger a bunch.
It might feel fiddly the first go. But you get quicker fast. Almost done connecting.
- Red clamp to HHR remote positive, then to good positive.
- Black to good negative, then to HHR metal ground.
- Check every clamp stays tight.
Step 3: Start the Cars and Give It Time to Charge
Turn on the working car now. Let it run easy at idle. Wait two or three minutes. Power flows over to your battery. You can rev it softly to 2000 RPM. That pushes more charge quicker. Do not rev hard. Just gentle helps.
After a few minutes try your HHR. Turn the key like normal. If it cranks slow, wait one more minute. Try again. When it starts, keep both cars running. Let them sit another three to five minutes. Your alternator begins filling the battery back up.
If it still will not catch, look at clamps again. Maybe one slipped. Rev the good car a touch more. Stay patient. Most times it fires right up after a short wait.
That roar when your engine starts feels so good. Relief hits quick.
- Start good car, idle or light rev for a few minutes.
- Try starting HHR, give extra time if slow.
- Run both cars longer to recharge properly.
Step 4: Take Cables Off Right and Drive It
Pull cables off backward from how you put them on. Take black off your HHR ground first. Then black off the good negative. Next red off the good positive. Last red off your HHR remote post. This order stops sparks close to the battery.
Thank your friend if they helped. Shut hoods. Now drive your HHR. Go for 20 to 30 minutes straight. No quick stops. That lets the alternator charge the battery full. Short drives after jump often leave it weak still.
Take it to get tested soon. Lots of auto stores check batteries free. They tell you if it needs a new one. If it was acting funny before, plan to replace soon. You avoid getting stuck again.
You did it yourself. Feels pretty awesome, right?
- Black off HHR ground, then good negative.
- Red off good positive, then HHR remote.
- Drive long and test battery after.
What If My Chevy HHR Still Won’t Start After the Jump?
It happens sometimes. You jump it but nothing. Or it cranks but does not catch. Maybe lights flash weird on the dash. The battery might be too dead. Or something else broke.
Look at fuses first. Check under hood and inside car. One might have blown. Go to trunk too. Clean those battery posts back there. Junk builds up easy in hidden spots.
Security system can get confused after low power. Dash shows odd warnings. Drive it a bit. Some lights go off alone. If not, a scan tool fixes codes quick.
Most times a new battery solves it. Deep drain kills old ones. Stay calm. Check one thing at a time. You figure it out.
- Start with fuses and trunk battery clean-up.
- Watch for security or dash warning lights.
- Drive or see a mechanic if it keeps acting up.
Final Thoughts
You now know exactly how to jump your Chevy HHR without stress. Use those remote posts, follow the order, and give it time to charge. Keep solid cables ready in your trunk. Check your battery every year. Small habits like that keep you rolling smooth. You handled this once, you can do it again anytime. Drive safe and enjoy your ride.
| Feature | Heavy-Duty 4-Gauge Cables | Standard 6-Gauge Cables | Portable Jump Starter | Battery Charger/Trickle | Booster Pack with Air Compressor | Basic 8-Gauge Cables |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gauge/Thickness | Thick, fast charge | Good balance | Built-in, no cables | Slow home use | Multi-function | Thin, slower |
| Length | 20+ ft | 16-20 ft | N/A | N/A | N/A | 10-12 ft |
| Best For | Frequent use, deep drain | Everyday emergencies | Solo jumps | Maintenance | Camping/off-road | Rare light use |
| Safety Features | Insulated clamps | Basic insulation | Overload protection | Auto shut-off | LED lights, SOS | Minimal |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Is it safe to jump start a Chevy HHR from under the hood?
Yes, it stays very safe. Chevy put remote positive posts under the hood for this reason. The real battery sits in the trunk. Connect red to the red cover post. Use a metal ground for black. It keeps sparks away from battery gases. Follow steps and you stay good.
Can I use any jumper cables for my HHR?
Better not. Get thick heavy-duty cables. Thin ones overheat fast or give weak power. 4-gauge or 6-gauge works best. Strong clamps grip tight too. Cheap cables fail when you need help most. Spend a little for ones that last.
Do I need to access the trunk battery to jump start?
No way. Skip the trunk. Use the remote positive under hood. It links straight to the battery. Find the red cover post and good ground. Easy access up front. Only open trunk for charging or new battery swap.
Is it okay to let the donor car run while jumping?
Yes, please do. Start the good car first. Idle it or rev light. Power moves over cables better. Wait a few minutes before you try your HHR. It wakes the dead battery gently. Works way faster.
Can jumping damage my HHR’s electronics?
Only if you mix up cables. Wrong order or bad ground can hurt. Use remote post and metal ground right. Cars have some protection built in. But careful steps stop fuse blows or security trips. Go slow and check twice.
Do I have to drive a long time after jumping?
Yes, plan for it. Drive 20 to 30 minutes no stopping. Short trips leave battery low still. Alternator needs time to fill it up. Do a good loop after jump. Keeps it strong longer.
Is the HHR battery different from other cars?
A bit yes. It hides in the trunk by the spare. Not under hood like usual. That is why remote jump posts exist up front. Makes jumping simple. Just remember location for other work like charging.
Can cold weather make my HHR battery die faster?
Oh yeah, cold hits hard. It slows battery power inside. Weak batteries struggle extra in winter. Keep it charged up. Use trickle charger if it sits outside. Warm things a little before cranking helps too.
Do warning lights come on after a jump start?
They can pop up. Low voltage confuses the computer. Check engine or traction lights show. Often they clear after driving some. If they stay, get codes read. Common after big drain but not always bad.
Is it better to call roadside help instead?
Depends on you. If dark, rain, or you feel unsure, call them. But learning this saves cash and time. Keep cables handy. Practice once. You become your own hero. Pros help great when needed though.
